Day 3: July 3 2025 - Tergnier - Fourmies - 55 miles

It didn’t do a storm last night, and I passed a pleasant night in my Big Agnes tent (not that big, just a small two man tent suitable really for one man - or, I guess, two very friendly men). I was up early, and on the road by 7:30 am, straight on to the Oise Canal towpath, which I stayed with throughout the morning. I made a quick stop at the first tabac/bar that I came by, for an indifferent coffee with no croissant (because there were none on offer), and watched the endless queue of people coming in to buy their lottery tickets and their cigarettes. France is still very much a smoking country, as far as I can see.

I stopped off for an early lunch at a little town on the canal and found some nice baguette and potato salad and pate, and sat in the square and fuelled myself as I watched the world go by. In the little square a market was taking place, and the one stand that caught my eye was the chevalier / cheval / horsemeat vendor, who had the biggest queue waiting to buy his horse meat. It’s a thing in this bit of France, as it is, I believe, in parts of Belgium. I’ve only ever had horse meat once, decades ago, and as I recall it was very bright red and a bit sweet. I don’t think you get it in restaurants, it’s more a home cook thing, but there are evidently lots of people in these parts who have a taste for it. Like they do for Gauloises and garlic.

The route moved from the canal to old railway lines after lunch, very straight and with a nice gentle incline, so pleasant riding. I’d say that I was on canal path or railway greenway for 95% of my ride today, which makes the cycling very pleasant.

I was heading for Fourmies on the banks of the Oise, where I am staying at a pleasant campground, the weather being camping suitable, and where I have been able to find all the accoutrements of happiness - showers, facilities, and a nice restaurant down the road where I had a half bottle of claret, and rabbit pate, followed by my favourite steak tartare. So, I am a happy camper this evening.

My plan tomorrow, Friday, is to move on north and east towards Belgium and Namur, where I can pick up the River Meuse / Maas route, and I have plans tomorrow night to camp again at a place just south of Namur. I think the weather looks set to hold fair. I believe the French schools break up tomorrow, as I imagine Belgium and Netherlands schools will also, so things will become a bit busier and I will need to plan ahead carefully in order to secure camping places and hotels as and when I use them.

Tomorrow is July 4th, and I must remember to send greetings to our American Cousins on their Independence Day. Of course, the irony is that their independence is rapidly being whittled away by Trumpism. I still cannot understand why Congress and the Supreme Court are not doing their bit to protect American democracy from a classic authoritarian, autocratic takeover by Trump and his friends. The USA secured freedom and independence from one monarch, only now to be taken over by another would be king, DJT. It is all happening in slow motion, but it is happening, as I was hearing this morning as I cycled along listening to The Rest is Politics podcast. In addition, the Trump empire is using the presidency to make billions, unashamedly, for Trump and his family. Apparently, it’s not corruption because he’s so open and transparent about it ! The latest wheeze is a Trump perfume. Congress, much emasculated by Trump money and influence, and the Supreme Court, which has its own financial self-aggrandisement problems, both need to step up and do the job that the Constitution requires of them. Otherwise Trump will become a dictator monarch, and annul the last almost 250 years of American Independence. American Cousins, take note !